10 points if you answer good -Warhammer- Fantasy?
Hi i`ve asked this question before but no-one answered. A few questions are:
Where to get in Australia?
Are lizardmen and high elves good to collect?
Is it actually good?
What are the rules? -What do you actually do !!!
And how much does it cost for a good army (hero king and assarted bits)
If you answer this and more in detail you will get 5 ***** stars.
Daniel
Can answer the first question… (I’m in the US). Try checking the Games-Workshop website for store locations, they will list both GW stores and independent dealers. There is also usually a decent selection of stuff for sale on ebay…
Both LM and HE are fairly good armies, not overpowered, but still better than average. Both also have a decent amount of flexibility in how you build your army. Model-wise both armies are decent overall, but both have some models that can be on the dicey side depending on your personal preference.
I’ve found the game/hobby very rewarding. The main issue is finding people to play. Once you find a local store that carries GW products, that will be a good place to start.
General rules are available in the Warhammer rule book. Armies are assembled from units listed in one of several Warhammer Armies supplemental books. (All of these should be available to purchase wherever you find to puchase models)
The Warhammer Armies texts giving guidelines and background for army-specific rules, i.e. types of models available for that army, their stats, and equipment and items available for the units, etc. Army supplements also assign points values to each unit and option in the game, giving players the ability to play on even terms. A single basic footman may cost 5-10 points, an elite footman 10-20 points, cavalry 15-25 points, to as high as 200-300 or more for powerful army leaders or monsters. An average game will have armies of 750 to 3,000 points, although smaller and larger values are quite possible. Tournament size games are usually played at 2250 points, which typically equates to armies consisting of approximately 70 to 130 models grouped into 5-10 units.
Games may be played on any appropriate surface, although the standard is a 6 ft by 4 ft tabletop decorated with model scenery in scale with the miniatures. Movement about the playing surface is generally measured in inches and combat between troops or units given a random element with the use of handfuls of six-sided dice. Game play follows a turn structure in which one player completes all movement for their units, then simulates casting spells (when spell-using units are available), uses all ranged or missile weapons in the army such as bows and handguns, then any units touching fight in melee or close-combat. After finishing, the second player does the same. This repeats for a number of equal turns, generally six. The winner is often determined by victory points; earning a number equal to the value of enemy units killed. Special factors, or “objectives” can add or subtract from this total based on pre-defined goals, usually holding parts of the battlefield or killing powerful units (such as the enemy general).
Dice rolls generally use traditional six-sided dice (D6), with a high result being desirable (in most cases). For example; an archer unit may be given a statistic that allows it to hit on the roll of a four or more. Various factors can change this number, reducing or raising the number needed. Mitigation of random results is a large part of the game, as well as traditional battlefield tactics. In some cases, other types of dice are needed; this can be a D3 (simulated with a normal die, 1 and 2 counting as a result of 1 and so on), or it can be a 6-sided ‘scatter’ die used to generate random directions.
Models for the game are made from kits sold by the publisher of the game. The models are made pewter and/or plastic, and most are multi-part and require a decent amount of assembly (heads, arms, legs, and torsos are all seperate pieces). Most players also paint the miniatures once they are assembled. At tournaments, such as the one in Memphis, the painting of your army is judged and is factored into the final rankings (usually about 30% of your total score, along with battle results: 40% and sportmanship: 30%). The hobby side of the game (model assembly and painting) is typically more time consuming than actually playing the game. For me its probably been about 75% building/painting, 25% playing). In case you are curious, some picture of the army I brought to last years tournament can be found here:
An 2250 point army will cost you 300-400 dollars. A lot of that will depend on how much flexibility you want to have, on whether or not you are able to get your hands on some used stuff.
Lord of the Rings High Elves Army HD
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